Key West is a town that overflows with zest: turquoise waters and sandy beaches, dive bars that never seem to close, stunning sunsets, pastel-hued homes, great American literary legacies, and a sordid haunted past. Chow down on key lime pie and conch fritters, snap a pic at the southernmost point of the continental United States, and take in as much sea and sun as your eyes can handle.

Key West sits right across the Florida Strait from Cuba, and the influence can be felt in many of the island’s favorite haunts, where you can learn to dance the salsa, sample locally distilled rum, and pile your breakfast plate high with sweet fried plantains and savory beans. However you spend your days, make sure that you’re back in Mallory Square before sunset, when live music from restaurant patios and vendors’ stalls fills the pedestrian-only square and people celebrate the show-stopping sunset with all the fanfare it deserves.

Air travelers can fly straight into Key West International Airport (EYW), from which point you can hop on a shuttle bus to get to the center of town, or rent a car to drive to your vacation rental. You could also fly into Miami International Airport (MIA) or Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport (FLL), and grab the Key West shuttle bus from either, directly to your destination. By land, you’re looking at around a four-hour drive from Miami, or less than five-hours drive from Fort Lauderdale. Once settled at your Key West house rental, you won’t need a car; most people prefer to soak up the lively atmosphere on foot, bike, scooter, or golf cart (all of which are available to rent on the island).

Winter is the most popular season in Key West, as the hot weather draws sun-seekers to the beaches, especially around the December holidays. You can also come in spring for sun and fewer crowds — despite Key West’s bustling nightlife scene, it isn’t typically hit by Spring Break crowds like other places in Florida. It’ll be warm enough to get in the water and enjoy beach time, with fewer people than in winter. Despite a September to November hurricane season, autumn is also a good time to check out Key West’s museums or to revel in the hedonistic Fantasy Fest while enjoying cooler air.

Snorkeling

Home to the only living Barrier Reef in the continental United States, Key West has some of the most incredible snorkeling in the world. Head out to the cluster of tiny islands known as the Dry Tortugas National Park for the best of the best: this area is home to unspoilt coral reefs, hundreds of species of tropical fish, starfish, and conch.

Ghost tours

Key West is rumored to be one of the most haunted cities in America, in juxtaposition with its sunny, good-time appearance. For fans of classic horror, be sure to ask about a famous local doll and the film franchise he inspired. Listen to ghost stories on board a spooky train tour, go on a guided walk around town, or check out the quirky inscriptions on the local graves at the cemetery.

Key lime pie

Key lime pie can be found on just about any menu here, from dive bars to high-end bistros, and with good reason — the island’s eponymous pie is zesty, creamy, and delicious. Traditionally made from tangy key lime juice and a rich, sweet custard of egg yolk and condensed milk atop a crust, everybody from home cooks to renowned chefs has their own take on how it should be made. Try as many versions as you can while you’re here, and join in on the debate of cooked versus uncooked filling, graham cracker versus pie crust, and whipped cream versus meringue topping.